Perhaps as expected, given the current economic and political situation, there are diverse and contradictory trends being discussed for autumn/winter 2020/1 – from looks that are extremely feminine and soft to those that are more androgynous with hard and sharp edges.

Pongees has distilled the predictions into three distinct groups  and has developed the appropriate fabric qualities and shades to help designers recreate next year’s winning looks.

Pongees has introduced even more colours within its washed crepe de chine, washed georgette and spun silks which are available now, with new shades in jersey and twill qualities due shortly.

Sharp and blunt

• No nonsense elegance typified by late 1970s and early 1980s European chic
• Calming, yet strong, designs, with an element of nostalgia, but not idealised
• The fabrics: To create feminine drape and fall: crepe de chine, marocain, double georgette, sand-washed spun, twill . For sharp masculine tailoring: tasar, douppion, textured crepe and sandstone crepe
• The colours: Cool neutrals - sable, tan, pearl, mocha, cream and oyster - juxtaposed with midnight blues, teal, turquoise, aqua and peacock

Defiance

• The words that describe this trend are: utilitarian, androgynous, strong and determined. It is a look influenced by punk, new wave, bondage, dominatrix, revolution and anarchy
• The fabrics: For armour-like strong tailoring: textured industrial damask and bold herringbone
• For body conscious, figure hugging interpretations: duchess stretch and double faced satin, razor sharp faille and punk inspired mohair
• The colours: Black, storm, steel, silver, charcoal and graphite spiked with sharp shocking pink, blood red, electric blue and acid yellow

Home comforts with a twist

• There is a strong feeling for a look that embodies comfort, with feminine and playful styles more usually seen at home taken outside.  For lingerie as outerwear - pyjamas and kimono wraps, cut away dresses, flashes of naked flesh
• There are also exaggerated proportions – such as ‘80s sculptured shoulders, oversized tops and dresses, volume, frills and swathes of ruffles
• The fabrics: Sheer chiffon, tulle, translucent changeant, georgette, organza, double crepe and chiffon satin
• The colours: Coral pink, geranium, old rose, pale pink, dusk, sky blue, peppermint, ash, lily, taupe and lavender.