Silk absorbs dyes extremely well.

There are two main dyeing methods: yarn-dyed, where the fibres are dyed before weaving or piece-dyed when the dyeing takes place after the fabric has been woven. The different processes create different characteristics. Yarn-dyed qualities include taffeta, duchess satin and many patterned woven fabrics, while crepes and twills are mostly piece-dyed.

Until about the mid 19th century, only yarn-dyed fabrics were woven, as piece-dyeing was still unknown. Yarn-dyeing still uses the same basic technique, which consists of soaking the skeins of raw silk in tanks containing the dyestuff.

In addition, to selling dyed fabrics, Pongees sells thousands of metres a year of greige/natural fabric, which has been boiled off (degummed) making it ready for dyeing and hand and machine printing.